Ever-Green Vietnamese by Andrea Nguyen

Author:Andrea Nguyen [Nguyen, Andrea]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Clarkson Potter/Ten Speed
Published: 2023-04-25T00:00:00+00:00

Súp Măng Tây Nấm Hương

Silky Asparagus-Shiitake Soup

When Viet people plan a fancy meal, they often think of asparagus-and-crab soup, a luxurious marriage of land and sea. Old-fashioned cooks, like my mom, used canned asparagus (it’s what they had access to), but I prefer fresh spears. To create a deeply savory vegetarian version, I use a triple whammy of kombu, shiitake, and asparagus. There’s little waste, as the woody ends of the asparagus add umami to the broth, and the rehydrated kombu and shiitake contribute texture and flavor to the final soup. The egg, mixed with fish sauce and black pepper, mimics crab butter.

Makes 6 servings

6 by 6-inch piece kombu, snipped into quarters

½ oz dried shiitake mushrooms

1-inch section fresh ginger, peeled, cut into thick coins, and smashed with the flat side of a knife

6 cups water, plus 3 Tbsp

12 oz asparagus

1½ Tbsp neutral oil (such as canola or peanut)

½ cup thinly sliced shallots or yellow onion

Fine sea salt

1 large egg, plus 1 egg yolk

1 tsp fish sauce (store-bought or vegan version, this page), plus more as needed

¼ tsp recently ground black pepper

2 Tbsp cornstarch

MSG or Asian mushroom seasoning for balancing flavor (optional)

Build the broth

Put the kombu, shiitake mushrooms, ginger, and 6 cups water in a 4-qt saucepan. Let soak and hydrate for at least 30 minutes, or overnight for best flavor. When ready to cook the broth, trim and coarsely chop the woody ends from the asparagus and add them to the pan. Partially cover the saucepan, set over medium heat, and bring to a boil. Then lower the heat to maintain a simmer and cook, uncovered, for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, cut the remaining asparagus stalks on a steep diagonal into 2-inch-long pieces. Separate the tender tips to add toward the end of cooking for a bright green finish. Set the stalks and tips aside.

When the broth finishes cooking, turn off the heat and let rest for 5 minutes. Using tongs, retrieve the kombu and shiitakes, giving each mushroom a squeeze to expel its liquid back into the pot; set aside. Strain the broth into another pan or large bowl, discarding the solids. Thinly slice the shiitake caps, discarding the stems or saving for another use. Trim the kombu, which may be slippery and viscous, of jagged edges and thin patches that may break apart in the soup, then cut into 2-inch-long strips, about ¼ inch wide. Add the shiitakes and kombu to the asparagus stalks.

Make the soup and serve

Return the saucepan to medium-high heat and add the neutral oil. When the oil barely ripples, add the shallots and 1 pinch salt and cook, stirring, for about 3 minutes, until soft and fragrant; a few golden edges are fine. Add the shiitakes, kombu, and asparagus stalk pieces and stir to combine. Sprinkle with ¾ tsp salt and then add the broth. Partially cover and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to a simmer and cook, still partly covered, for 15 minutes; midway through, add the reserved asparagus tips. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the egg, egg yolk, fish sauce, and pepper; beat with a fork; and set aside.

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